Why Go to Kalimantan – The Wild Island

Do you have the soul of an adventurer, and are you wondering whether to go to Kalimantan to meet the orangutans off the beaten track? You've picked the best island in the Indonesian archipelago for this kind of expedition. This can also be done in Sumatra, but there it happens in a safer, more clearly marked way. In the Indonesian part of Borneo, the trails are demanding and comfort is basic. A guide is absolutely essential to make it through this challenging environment. That said, don't worry: the Tanjung Puting reserve, in the centre of the island, is far easier to approach and better suited to the general public. Beyond watching the great apes, your travels along the Kapuas and Mahakam rivers will introduce you to the traditional way of life of the Dayak tribe. A detour east will take you straight to the paradise archipelago of Derawan, where turtles and manta rays reign supreme, while the great river city of Pontianak will be one of your only tangible links to modernity.

Orangutan Trekking in Gunung Palung

If you've already had the chance to see them in Sumatra's Gunung Leuser National Park or in Tanjung Puting, orangutan trekking in Gunung Palung is on another level entirely. Sleeping on a mat under a small shelter, cooking over a wood fire, machete-cut trails through the jungle in the realm of scorpions and cobras — the challenge is considerable. We can, however, put you in touch with a guide experienced in running this kind of expedition for tourists, who will look after you so that nothing goes wrong. Hardcore wilderness hikers will find even more to sink their teeth into in the remote Betung Kerihun park, one of the most isolated places in Indonesia. River crossings and steep slope climbs — you'll need to be a true professional to take on this challenge.

Cruising Tanjung Puting Nature Reserve

You don't have to take risks to discover Kalimantan's orangutans. Tanjung Puting Nature Reserve is accessible to all types of travellers. From Pangkalan Bun airport, you make your way to the Sekonyer River and board a traditional wooden boat called a klotok. You then spend two to four days aboard this vessel, which takes its passengers to the park's various feeding platforms, including Camp Leakey, a research centre founded in 1971 by the celebrated Lithuanian-Canadian primatologist Biruté Galdikas, a genuine local star. The idea is to sleep right on the boat, on mattresses with mosquito nets set up on deck, or to book a room in one of the eco-lodges found in the jungle. An unforgettable getaway in a pristine natural setting you won't soon forget.

Meeting the Dayak Tribe

The Dayak are Kalimantan's original people. They live in rumah betang, long communal houses on stilts generally built by the water and shared between several families. Most have converted to Christianity, but they carefully preserve some of their animist beliefs, along with their dances, costumes, tattoos and distinctive jewellery. You can visit them in their villages along the banks of the Kapuas and Mahakam rivers, as well as in the south of the province. One of the most popular is the village of Loksado, where guests can try their hand at bamboo raft rafting on the Amandit River and get introduced to the many facets of this remarkably rich indigenous culture.

Snorkeling in the Derawan Archipelago

After spending time trekking through the jungle from one end of Kalimantan to the other, the Derawan archipelago off eastern Borneo is the perfect spot to recharge your batteries. Across the islands, you'll laze on fine sandy beaches and swim in turquoise water as warm as your bath. In Maratua, you'll swim among the turtles. In Sangalaki, you may have the chance to encounter manta rays. As for Kakaban, this island holds an extraordinary marine lake home to jellyfish found nowhere else on Earth, which no longer sting since their stingers became harmless over time due to their prolonged isolation from the ocean.

A Trip to Pontianak

Kalimantan doesn't have as many big cities as Indonesia's main islands, but a few of them are still well worth the detour. Pontianak, for example, in the west of the province. A monument was erected in this city to mark the passage of the equator. Inside this structure, you can place your left foot in the northern hemisphere and your right foot in the southern hemisphere, an unusual little acrobatic feat. Pontianak is also crossed by the Kapuas River, which is a real pleasure to cruise along at sunset. You'll also find a large mosque and a cathedral here, a sign of the religious diversity found across Borneo, where roughly three quarters of the population is Muslim, with the rest being Christian, Buddhist or Taoist. While there, you can also explore a faithful replica of a Dayak communal house, in case you don't have the courage or the time to venture all the way to their remote territory deep in the jungle.

The Downsides of Kalimantan

As a predominantly wild island, Borneo isn't exactly known for its comfort. Most of the excursions it offers take place in tough conditions, and you'll need to be particularly fit to handle the effort involved. If you're looking for a place to relax, eat pizza and enjoy a quiet holiday, don't come to Kalimantan. There are far more modern and touristy spots out there for a less demanding stay.