Why Go to Flores – The Island of Dragons

Fans of mythology and fantasy films alike will jump at the chance to go to Flores to come face to face with real-life Komodo dragons. They don't breathe fire like the ones in Harry Potter or Game of Thrones, but their physical appearance is strikingly similar to those unsettling creatures usually seen on screen. Still, this large island in eastern Indonesia has far more to offer than its monitor lizards. It's above all a prime destination for diving and snorkeling, and it's also home to majestic volcanoes you can climb, such as Kelimutu or Wawo Muda. It's also home to ancient tribes with deeply rooted customs, such as the Lio, the Ngada, and the Manggarai.

Watching the Komodo Dragons

Two very different options are available if you want to get up close to the Komodo dragons. Leaving from the town of Labuan Bajo on Flores, you can either book a one-day trip with a dive center, or join a three- or four-day cruise where you'll sleep aboard a boat. Whichever you prefer, your guides will take you to Komodo and Rinca islands to see the monitor lizards, to Manta Point to swim with rays, or to Pink Beach to relax. Be careful which operator you choose, as there can sometimes be unpleasant surprises. We're happy to recommend the best operators in the area to help you avoid any such trouble, so don't hesitate to reach out. It's also worth knowing that some animal-welfare-conscious travelers feel uneasy seeing monitor lizards overfed, or even drugged, to keep them still and harmless around visitors. Much like a trip to the zoo, it's up to each person to weigh their own convictions on the matter before booking an excursion in the region.

Snorkeling in Maumere

The largest town on Flores, located on the island's northeastern coast, Maumere is an excellent destination for enjoying the underwater scenery in complete tranquility. This port town sees far fewer visitors than Labuan Bajo and Komodo National Park. It offers a rawer, more authentic side of Indonesia that will truly transport you. You'll eat freshly caught fish, wander through markets fragrant with spices, and treat yourself to some magical scenery beneath the surface of the sea. Pulau Babi is known for its beautiful coral reefs, and Pulau Pangabatang for its overall marine biodiversity.

Hiking Mount Kelimutu

A sacred site for the Lio people, who consider it the natural resting place for the souls of their ancestors and a true emblem of Flores, Mount Kelimutu is a must if you're in the area. The climb isn't difficult and is accessible to hikers of all levels. The walk of less than an hour to the summit from the parking area, which is easily reachable by car from the village of Moni, is well maintained, with sturdy staircases and clear paths. Whether you go up for sunrise or sunset, the black lake of the elders, the turquoise-blue lake of the young, and the spellbinding red lake below will be a feast for the eyes.

Visiting the Ngada Villages

Central Flores is the homeland of the Ngada tribe. Settled around the Inerie volcano, these Christians with strong animist customs regularly welcome Westerners to showcase their fascinating culture. Their tall-roofed houses, in which you can spend the night, are true to type. They're organized by clan and follow a strict architectural layout. The central square is occupied by majestic stones raised to honor the dead, as well as symbolic totems that are very important in this people's traditions. They're also well known for producing coffee and palm spirit, locally called Moke or Arak, a drink consumed daily but especially during ritual ceremonies.

Meeting the Manggarai

The Manggarai are another major group on Flores. They live around the town of Ruteng, in the western part of the island. Villages where you can stay with a host family within their territory include Wae Rebo, Todo, and Liang Ndara. If you choose this option, you'll likely have the chance to watch a performance of Caci, an impressive choreographed fight in which an attacker armed with a buffalo-hide whip tries to strike a defender who protects himself with a bamboo shield. As for their livelihood, the Manggarai make their living mainly from rice farming. The spider-web-shaped rice terraces of Cancar are also well worth the detour, as is the archaeological site of Liang Bua, where the remains of Homo floresiensis were discovered — a dwarf adult barely a meter tall, nicknamed the hobbit.

The Downsides of Flores

People come to Flores for its distance from modernity, its rustic character, its authenticity. On top of the many hours of flying it takes to get there, much like the Moluccas or Papua, don't expect high-quality tourist infrastructure. This is especially true if you're planning to spend time with the tribes of central Flores, where the journey to reach them is grueling and comfort is basic. An island better suited to seasoned travelers than to fans of hotels and lounging around.